Day 13: Pretty things, lunch with a friend, and belly laughs
We love "house" museums and have previously enjoyed visiting the Nissim de Camondo, Jacquemart-Andre, the Frick, and the Doria Pamphilj. So today we decided to tour the Cougnacq-Jay museum and meet up with our former Paris Greeter, now friend, JL, for lunch.
Looking out the window confirmed that it would be a less than glorious day in Paris. It didn't matter to me; I'll take Paris any way I can get her!
The Cougnacq-Jay Museum is at the Hotel de Donon which as built in 1575. It's free to enter and was the collection amassed by Ernest Cougnacq, the found of La Samaritaine Department store, and his wife, Marie-Louise Jay. They bequeathed their collection to the Ville de Paris in 1928, when he died. It was pretty quiet there, except for a bunch of students on a field trip. We decided to start at the top and go from there (kind of backwards).
We visited La Samaritaine on our first trip to Paris in 2003. We loved it! Super central and just beautiful on the inside. We went back in May, 2005 and I remember buying several bottles of Le Marseillaise body wash. It closed down in June 2005.
The Cognacq-Jay is not your typical "house" museum because the couple never lived there. But we liked looking at all the beautiful pieces this couple collected. The museum provided map and in each room there was a guide describing the contents.
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| Mechanical desk |
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| Furniture a la Reine ca.1775-1780 |
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| Each room had these cards with details of the contents |
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| Secretary in a cupboard, ca. 1750 |
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| Polish style bed ca 1755 |
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| "The Accident" by Hubert Robert (my husband is this guy!) |
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| "Balaam's Donkey," Rembrandt, 1626 |
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| Lyre pendulum ca. 1780-1785 |
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| "The Bamquet of Cleopatra," Tiepolo ca. 1742-1743 |
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| "Gathering in a Park," Watteau de Lille, 1785 |
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| Bust of Marie Antoinette |
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| The back courtyard |
After wandering and enjoying this collection, our friend JL met us and we headed out to lunch. He was our Paris Greeter in 2015 and we've kept in touch. He choose a nearby Britton restaurant, Le Sevigne, as he is originally from that area. I don't think he liked it much--there was a lot of rapid French exchanged between him and our waiter--but we loved catching up with him and enjoyed time together. After lunch, we all walked to the nearest metro. JL headed to the suburbs to meet a potential tenant for his apartment while we decided to visit the Decorative Arts Museum.
The Decorative Arts Museum is at the Palais du Louvre. It was rainy and cold when we arrived to a long line. Pretty much everyone was there for the Christian Dior exhibit which was not included with our museum pass. After discussion, we stuck to the line and were admitted within 15 minutes.
This museum was included with our Museum Pass and it was quite an unexpected delight. The collection was extensive. Each room was filled with gorgeous furniture and priceless objects d'art. I felt it was kind of the "overflow" from the Louvre but the main collection was not crowded and we really enjoyed looking at all the pretty pieces. The collection was well signed, in French. Thankfully, we had the included audioguide :)
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| Armoire of 7 colums ca 1715-1720 |
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| Cabinet, 1670 |
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| This looks like a chair my in laws own! |
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| Secretary, ca. 1750 |
There were a few reproduced rooms like the salon of the Hotel de Serres from 1790-1795 and the Duchess of Berry's apartment.
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| Apartment of the duchess of Berry |
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| La duchesse de Berry |
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| Napoleon I's throne |
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| Renaissance vase, 1830 |
Next was a room about the great courtesans of the 1850's to 1910's. This massive bed was commissioned and build for Emilie Valtese de la Bigne who was immortalized in the novel Nana by Emile Zola.
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| Lots of people could fit on this bed! |
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| "Landscape of Brittany, Windmill of David," Gaugin, 1894 |
This piano was so cool. The women depicted were just beautiful. I didn't take a picture of the sign so I don't know who carved it or how old it is.
The last thing I looked at was this beautiful door made by Lalique for the 1925 International Exposition of Decorative Arts and Modern Industries. It's just iron, glass mold and glass panes but is gorgeous.
After the museum, we headed back to our apartment to relax before our Air B&B experience: How to Become a Parisian in One Hour. It included drinks and appetizers with the comedian, Olivier, before the show, champagne toast, front row seats, and a tour of the theatre after the show.
We met at a nice bistrot close to the theatre. The Metro (and the Navigo Devouverte pass) made getting there easy, even with the rain. We met Olivier and two other couples and chatted for awhile. It was really interesting to meet the comedian and see him "off-stage" because it made his routine even funnier! At the bistrot, I recommended the Navigo to one of the other couples instead of just using carnets and he cleverly incorporated that into his routine (with a wink to me as he did it!). It was a really funny show! Husband had been reluctant to go but agreed that it was time well spent. Especially since we missed it in 2012 when I had us go to the theatre a day late... Seriously, numbers and dates are not my strong suit!
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| On stage after the show. It's an intimidating perspective |
Afterwards, we were in no way ready to go back to our apartment so husband and I headed back to Earth K Bar for our nightcap. Husband had Britton Whiskey in honor of our friend JL.
Takeaways:
1. The Cognacq-Jay is a lovely collection in a pretty old mansion and free to enter.
2. Paris Greeters is a great program; we've made a friend from our greet in 2015!
3. On rainy days, everyone goes to the museums. Patience is essential for the long lines.
4. The Decorative Arts Museum is very worth your time. Do get the audioguide as the signage is almost entirely in French.
5. Learn more French!
6. "How to Become a Parisian in 1 Hour" is a very funny show! Bravo, Olivier!
7. I love Paris, even in the rain!
Next: D'Orsay xs 2, fancy dining, and Mr. Rodin.
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